Here are a few articles to help
you care for your piano,
selecting a good teacher, and
case care.
Although the care article is
oriented to the teacher, the
student should enjoy the same
quality of care if progress is
desired.
CARING
FOR YOUR NEW PIANO
If you were to take your piano
and seal it in a box with a
constant 45”
humidity, there is little doubt
that 100 years from now your
piano
would still be a fine working,
playing instrument. When you
take that
piano out of the box and use it,
expose it to sunlight, and vary
the
humidity it is exposed to, the
aging process accelerates.
A few simple tips on getting the
most from your piano.
DO NOT
Place your piano in
sunlight.
Position it near or against
heating or AC vents.
Expose it to grime and dirt,
such as during remodeling.
Store it in an area with
uncontrolled temperature or
humidity.
DO
Use and enjoy your piano.
Tune on at least a yearly basis.
Keep the mechanical aspects
properly adjusted.
Keep the case and keys cleaned
and polished.
REFER
To the articles on this site
concerning tuning and
maintenance below.
MAINTENANCE OF THE
TEACHING PIANO
For your students, your piano is
much more than just a musical
instrument-it's a unique vehicle
for their self-expression. It
can increase self-esteem and
self-knowledge, and can also
provide the opportunity for
much-needed recognition. Your
piano has a task far beyond
teaching scales and chords, and
it must be up to the challenge.
As every teacher knows, a good
piano is a major investment. The
cost of an instrument capable of
performing up to professional
standards and enduring constant
use is considerable. And to keep
that instrument performing its
best over the longest possible
time requires regular
maintenance.
How often should I have
my piano tuned?
Because of the amount
of time your piano is in use and
because ear training is such an
important aspect of any musical
education, your piano may
require more tunings annually
than other pianos. Your piano
may also be used to make
audition tapes for student
scholarship competitions where
impeccable intonation is vital
for your students to sound their
best.
The variations in the relative
humidity of a studio or home are
generally the most important
criteria in determining how
often a piano needs to be tuned.
Normal homes may experience
fairly drastic changes from
season to season. Your situation
is complicated by constant use,
which tends to deteriorate a
tuning more quickly. A piano
functions best under consistent
conditions which are neither too
wet nor dry, optimally at a
temperature of 68 degrees
Fahrenheit and 42 percent
relative humidity.
You can reduce the severity of
these climatic effects by
placing your piano in the room
so that it is away from windows
or doors, which are opened
frequently. Avoid heating and
air conditioning vents,
fireplaces and areas receiving
direct sunlight.
While manufacturers'
recommendations on the number of
annual tunings vary, they
generally agree that a piano
should be tuned at least two to
four times each year, with
additional tunings as needed.
What about regulation?
Periodically your piano will
require the adjustment of its
mechanical parts to compensate
for the effects of wear, the
compacting and settling of
cloth, felt and buckskin, as
well as dimensional changes in
wooden and wool parts due to
changes in relative humidity.
This series of adjustments is
known as regulation, which
involves three systems of your
piano: the action, trap work and
damper system.
The action is the mechanical
part of the piano that permits
efficient transfer of power from
the fingers on the keys to the
hammers that strike the strings.
Consisting of over 9,000 working
parts, the action requires
adjustment to critical
tolerances to properly respond
to a pianist's performance.
Because the piano's action will
go out of adjustment slowly over
time, you may not notice
accumulating sluggishness or
unevenness as it occurs. Your
student's performance, however,
will be affected dramatically.
No amount of practice will
compensate for a poorly
maintained action. Poor legato
touch, chord playing where all
the notes of the chord don't
speak clearly, a gradual loss of
subtlety in phrasing, and an
inability to execute quick
passages or note repetitions
evenly may be the fault of the
piano - not the student. Smooth,
even playing is as much a
function of a well-maintained
action as a well-rehearsed
student.
The trap work is the assemblage
of levers, dowels and springs
that connects the pedals to the
action. The damper system is the
mechanical part of the piano
that stops the motion of the
strings and is controlled by the
keys and pedal system. Incorrect
pedaling techniques may be
related to poor regulation of
the trap work or damper system.
Fine adjustment is essential
here if you are to teach the
nuances of pedaling to your
students.
What is voicing?
Your piano also may
require periodic voicing. The
process of voicing can adjust
the relative brilliance of a
piano and provide an even
gradation of volume and tone
over the entire range of the
keyboard. Voicing procedures may
involve reshaping the hammers,
the use of needles on the hammer
felt and/or the application of
special softeners or hardeners
in order to produce the best
sound possible. You should
discuss with your technician
what changes in your piano's
tone are practical and,
together, decide what steps
should be taken to effect these
changes.
Although you may have your piano
tuned regularly, you must
specifically request regulation
or voicing procedures. These
procedures aren't included in a
normal tuning. It should also be
noted that voicing can only be
accomplished after a piano has
been freshly tuned.
What should my regular
maintenance program consist of?
The backbone of any
maintenance program is regular
tuning. These tunings should
occur as needed to compensate
for changes in humidity and
temperature, and movement of
strings from use. A rule of
thumb is that tunings should be
done often enough to hold pitch
between A339 and A441. Depending
upon your climate and the
condition of your instrument,
this probable will mean at least
two to four tunings per year.
Minor repairs and adjustments
can be made at the same time.
Your teaching piano should be
thoroughly cleaned, the action
regulated, and the hammers
reshaped and voiced
approximately every three years,
or as needed, depending upon the
usage and quality of your
instrument.
What about long-term
maintenance?
If you are advised that
regulation will not improve the
performance of your instrument,
or that your tuning may not hold
for more than short periods of
time, your piano may require
reconditioning or rebuilding.
Reconditioning involves
cleaning, repair and adjustment
of your piano, and replacement
of parts only where indicated.
Rebuilding involves the complete
disassembly of your piano. A
qualified rebuilder inspects and
replaces all worn or
deteriorated parts that can
include such major components as
the pin block, action, soundboard
and bridges. Thorough rebuilding
will restore your instrument to
its original condition.
How should I go about
selecting a piano?
If you find yourself in
need of another instrument, be
sure to consider all options,
both new and used. Fine used
instruments become available for
sale for a variety of reasons.
Your technician can help you
select a piano in good playing
condition and give you an idea
of what type of maintenance you
can expect in the future. Like
selecting a used car, it's
important to seek the help of an
expert when making your purchase
to avoid costly repairs in the
future. Your technician also can
provide you with guidance
regarding the selection of a new
instrument best suited for your
demanding needs.
How can I help my
students improve the performance
of their pianos?
Many students don't
like to practice their lessons
at home. It's possible their
instrument at home isn't tuned
regularly, has never been
regulated or voiced, and just
doesn't sound good. A student
needs a practice piano that
functions properly in order to
take full advantage of your
instruction. You can help by
introducing your students to a
qualified technician and by
letting them know how important
it is to properly maintain their
instruments.
How do I find a
qualified person to service my
teaching piano?
The Piano Technicians
Guild, Inc. (PTG) is a nonprofit
organization dedicated to
expanding the knowledge and
skill of professionals in the
piano industry. The largest
organization of its kind in the
world, its membership includes
tuner-technicians, rebuilders,
piano designers and
manufacturers, retailers and
enthusiasts. PTG certifies
Registered Piano Technicians
(RPT) through a series of
rigorous examinations designed
to test their skill in tuning,
regulation and repair. Those
capable of performing these
tasks up to a recognized
worldwide standard receive
certification.
As a piano teacher, you have
invested years of practice and
study in the areas of piano
pedagogy and performance.
Similarly, RPTs have devoted
years of study to become
competent in the areas of piano
maintenance and service. By
regularly utilizing the services
of an RPT, and by recommending
an RPT to your students, you can
be assured that you and your
students' instruments will be
properly maintained for optimal
performance year after year.
What is a Registered
Tuner-Technician?
Registered
Tuner-Technicians (RPTs) are
certified only after
successfully completing a series
of three rigorous examinations
on the maintenance, repair and
tuning of pianos. The Piano
Technicians Guild authorizes
only RPTs to display the
familiar logo that consumers
look for. Protect yourself and
your piano by always engaging
the services of a registered
member of the Piano Technicians
Guild.
The Piano Technicians Guild is a
nonprofit, international
organization of skilled piano
technicians. The Guild's purpose
is to maintain the highest level
of skill in its members by
providing educational
opportunities and forums for the
exchange of information. Its
goal is to offer piano owners
qualified technicians who are
accredited, readily available
and thoroughly dependable to
service their instruments.
SELECTING THE RIGHT
PIANO TEACHER
How do I find the Right
Teacher?
All music teachers are
not created equal. The teacher
closest to where you live, or
the one who charges the least,
is not necessarily the best
choice. You want a teacher who
will inspire you or your child,
and nurture you as you grow
artistically-someone whose style
and values are appropriate for
your personality and learning
style.
Ask for teacher recommendations
from friends, neighbors, music
stores and schools. Arrange to
interview prospective teachers
prior to making a commitment.
Ask to sit in on a lesson. If
the teacher thinks auditing a
lesson would be too intrusive
for the student, ask if the
teacher's students will be
presenting a recital, and attend
it.
If your child is the one
interested in music, it is
especially important to find a
good teacher. If all goes well,
your child will develop a
special one-on-one relationship
with their music teacher, who
will help instill a lifelong
love of music in your child.
Another key factor in making
music lessons successful is your
involvement. Parental support in
the learning process is vital.
Whether you know anything about
music or not, make time to
listen to your child play,
encourage them to practice, and
praise their continued efforts.
Interview Prospective
Teachers
Teachers should have
definite objectives and teaching
techniques, and should be able
and willing to explain them to
you. Here are some questions to
ask during the interview:
-
How much teaching
experience do you have?
-
Do you have a degree in
music? Which degrees and
from where? (Not that
college-educated
teachers are the only
ones you should
consider. But find out
about a prospective
teacher's educational
background, and then
decide how important it
is to you.)
-
Do you use technology in
your studio, such as
computers, music
instruction software,
electronic keyboards?
-
What are your studio
policies regarding fees,
cancellations and
make-up lessons, for
example?
-
Do you periodically
conduct parent
conferences to evaluate
student progress?
-
What instructional
materials and methods do
you use?
-
Do you think learning
music should be fun? How
do you make lessons fun
but still productive?
-
Do you teach any music
other than classical
music? What if my child
wants to play pop, or
I'm interested in
learning to play jazz?
-
How much practice time
do you require each day?
Do you spend time during
the lesson helping
students learn good
practice habits?
-
Do you provide
performance
opportunities for your
students? Do you require
students to perform a
certain number of times
per year?
-
Do you offer group
lessons? Master classes?
-
Do you teach students
how to improvise?
Memorize? Play by ear?
Compose? Do you work on
sight-reading in the
lesson?
-
Do you teach music
theory? Music history?
How?
-
What do you do in the
way of ongoing
professional
development? (Subscribe
to music education
magazines, belong to
professional
associations, attend
workshops.)
-
Are you nationally
certified?
In order to reap all the rewards
studying music provides, a
student must be motivated to
continue to work toward a goal.
A skilled music teacher can make
the difference in continuing
music lessons over a number of
years.
Ask for References
Ask prospective
teachers for references, and
evaluate each teacher's
credentials. One valuable
criterion is participation in
the national certification
program administered by Music
Teachers National Association (MTNA).
To become certified, a teacher
must hold an associate or
bachelor degree in music, have
college teaching experience,
and/or successfully complete a
series of comprehensive
examinations. If a teacher has
met certification requirements,
you can be assured that they are
an educated, accomplished and
dedicated professional.
Music is Beneficial for
All Learners
Children-and
adults-need to create, to
express themselves, and to
receive praise for something
they've accomplished. Music
lessons provide all this and
more. Learning to play a musical
instrument develops
concentration, coordination,
critical thinking and
communication skills; but best
of all, it boosts self- esteem.
Taking music lessons can be a
joyful experience for students
of any age or ability. Diligent
music students learn how
rewarding it is to achieve a
goal - practice really does make
perfect!
The piano is unique among musical instruments because it also serves as fine furniture for the home. In fact, the term "piano finish" has traditionally been used to describe the highest standards in wood finishing. Properly maintaining that fine finish will enhance your home's décor and preserve the value of your piano.
Basic Finish Care
Modern pianos are finished with a variety of materials, from traditional lacquer to modern polyurethane’s and polyester resins. Whatever the material, a piano finish is designed to protect the wood from dirt and liquid spill, reduce the damaging effects of humidity changes, and - in the case of clear finishes - enhance the beauty of the wood.
Modern finishes are designed to do their job without the additional aid of polishes or waxes. In most cases, a piano finish is best maintained by simply keeping it clean and avoiding exposure to direct sunlight, extremes of temperature and humidity, and abrasion.
-
Avoiding finish damage.
Your piano's cabinet, like all woodwork, is subject to expansion and contraction with humidity changes. Excessive wood movement can eventually cause the finish to develop tiny cracks and even separate from the wood. Moderating the temperature and humidity swings around the piano will help to preserve its finish as well as its overall structure and tuning stability.
Locate the piano in a room with a fairly even temperature, away from drafts, dampness, and heat sources. Always avoid direct sunlight - it will age the finish prematurely and cause color fading.
To prevent scratches, never set objects on your piano without a soft cloth of felt pad.
Never place plants or drinks on a piano, because spillage and condensation can cause major damage.
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Dusting your piano.
Dust is very abrasive, and can scratch the finish if wiped off with a dry cloth. To avoid scratching, dust the piano lightly with a feather duster. Alternatively, wipe lightly with a soft damp cloth to pick up the dust, followed immediately with a dry cloth. The cloths should be soft cotton such as flannel, because coarse or synthetic fabrics can scratch some finishes. Wring out the damp cloth thoroughly so it leaves no visible moisture on the surface.
To avoid creating swirl marks, always wipe with long straight strokes rather than circular motions. Wipe with the grain for natural wood finishes, or in the direction of the existing sheen pattern for solid-color satin finishes.
Because some exposed parts inside your piano are fragile, it's best to let your technician clean these areas
.
-
Cleaning the finish.
To remove smudges and fingerprints, first dust using the damp/dry cloths as above. If heavier cleaning is necessary, dampen your cloth with a small amount of mild soap solution. A common product is Murphy's Oil Soap, available at most grocery and hardware stores.
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To polish or not?
Before using polish on your piano, be sure it is actually necessary and beneficial. In general, most manufacturers recommend against using polishes because of the potential for damage to the finish and contamination of other parts of the instrument.
Common household products such as "lemon oil" or inexpensive "furniture polish" should be avoided. Despite the labels' claims that they "protect" the finish or "feed" the wood, they offer no protection from scratching and can actually soften the finish if overused. Worse, they often contain silicones and oils that contaminate the wood, complicating future refinishing or repairs. Silicone is especially dangerous because of its tendency to spread within the piano, sometimes causing extensive internal damage. Avoid aerosol products altogether since the over-spray can contaminate piano strings, tuning pins and action parts.
Once the original finish is clean, you can either leave it as is or enhance the gloss and clarify with an appropriate polish according to the finish type listed below.
Care of specific finish types
Modern pianos are finished with a variety of materials, from traditional lacquer to modern polyurethane’s and polyester resins. Whatever the material, a piano finish is designed to protect the wood from dirt and liquid spills, reduce the damaging effects of humidity changes, and - in the case of piano strings, tuning pins and action parts.
An appropriate polish can help to restore luster to a dulled finish or reduce the tendency of some finishes to show fingerprints. However, it should be applied sparingly and infrequently, and all excess should be wiped clean with a soft dry cloth so no visible film remains. To prevent scratching, always dust before polishing. Specific recommendations follow.
-
Removing a heavy polish build-up.
If your piano's finish appears gummy, oily, or streaked, it may be contaminated with too much or the wrong type of polish. Adding more polish will not correct this problem. Instead, the finish should be thoroughly cleaned, then evaluated for any further treatment.
To remove accumulations of old polish, use a cloth dampened with a mild soap solution as in item 3 above. Wring the cloth thoroughly to minimize wetting of the finish, and dry the surface immediately. Test a small area first to make sure the washing does not cause white marks or softening of an older finish.
If stronger cleaning is necessary, look for a product called "wood cleaner and wax remover" at hardware or wood workers supply stores, or ask your technician for a suggestion.
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FINISH REVIVERS
Always test each procedure on an unnoticeable area before proceeding!
There are several ways to revive an old finish. Merely cleaning off the dirt and wax may restore the luster. For scratches on a tabletop, a gentle cleaning followed by recoating with shellac or lacquer may do the trick. Lightly dissolving the surface layer and rubbing out flaws with a soft cloth might work, or you might have to liquefy the finish and brush it out. Even the last approach is easier than stripping.
Cleaning Intact Finishes.
If the finish is dark or dull, but not cracked or crumbly, simple cleaning may be all you need. Start with the mildest cleaner first.
Mix one tablespoon Ivory Liquid in a quart of warm water. Whip it to create suds. Dip an old towel into the suds-not the water. Water will turn shellac and lacquer cloudy. Suds will not. Rub a test area (about two square inches) vigorously, then towel dry.
If the surface is still dark, remove old wax by brushing mineral spirits on the test area. Allow to soak for three minutes (less if it's a glossy tabletop). Vigorously scrub in the direction of the grain with a towel. Then allow the wood to dry for an hour and apply a bit of lemon oil.
If this doesn't take care of the problem, you can try a commercial cleaner, such as Briwax Furniture Cleaner (imported from England), which removes wax, smoke, and dirt. Floors have their own cleaners, such as Floor Revive, to deep clean and restore shine.
A pleasant-smelling homemade cleaner OHJ that has been recommended for years is one cup each boiled (not raw) linseed oil, white vinegar, and turpentine. Put the ingredients in a one-quart container and shake vigorously.
In a test area, apply this mix with a paintbrush, let it sit for three minutes, and scrub with terry cloth. You can also use fine steel wool (#0000) or green 3M pads. (If I'm going to apply clear finish later, I avoid steel wool; fine steel hairs catch in the wood grain.) Wipe off the excess with paper towels or rags (see "Safety First," below).
If the cleaner is effective, go on to clean all your woodwork. You can clean newel posts and carved trim with a toothbrush. To clean inside turnings, use twine, working it back and forth like a shoeshine rag. The same tools can be used for the finish revivers.
When the woodwork is clean and dry, apply lemon oil or paste wax, but not both. Lemon oil dissolves wax and turns it gummy.
More Than Cleaning
Let's say your finish is scratched, crazed, or crumbly. As long as the body of the finish is still there, a commercial finish reviver can help it rise again like Lazarus. These products range from those that coat scratches and remove water blooms to others that "melt" the finish and allow you to brush it out.
For a lightly scratched tabletop you can use Jet Spray Lacquer, which touches up scratches, blending them seamlessly with the existing finish. You'll need to specify clear or one of several wood colors. There's a Blush Eraser that goes along with this product to get rid of those white marks from glasses. Or try Pad-Lac Padding Lacquer. The product kit includes a soft pad that spreads a thin finish over the existing varnish, shellac, or lacquer, leaving an effect similar to French polish.
If the surface is distressed-water rings, burns, checking, or crazing-try one of the products sometimes called "refinishers." They range from gentle to very aggressive. Among the gentlest if Howards' Restor-A-Finish, which does not dissolve the original finish but removes flaws as you rub with fine steel wool or toweling. It comes in nine wood colors. A similar product, designed especially for highly polished surfaces, is Briwax Reviver, which is rubbed in with a soft cloth.
A more aggressive reviver, Behlen's Qualarenu Amalgamator, softens old shellac, lacquer, and varnish so that you can brush the finish smooth. You'll need something this strong if the finish is alligatored. Be prepared to work quickly because the amalgamator only has a short "open" time.
The product you're most likely to find in your local hardware store is Formby's Furniture Refinisher. Formby's definitely falls into the aggressive camp. Be sure to test in an inconspicuous location first and try several application methods, from 0000 steel wool to barely dampened terry cloth. Formby's will cut through varnish, so it can be used to revive varnished woodwork, but if you put too much on, you'll wind up with most of the finish on your steel wool or rag.
Home-Brew Finish Revivers.
Saving money is a goal if you have rooms of architectural woodwork staring you in the face. In that case, you might find that a home-brew works as well as commercial finish revivers, especially if your woodwork is shellacked. You can try the following, starting with the first and working you way down. (Here's where you'll be glad you've tested your old finish first).
When you are not actively applying them, store these liquids in a wide-mouth jar with a lid. The volatile ingredients will off-gas, so suit up, with mask and gloves, for the work.
Dip steel wool or a 3M pad in the mix and rub with the grain until you're happy with the color. The finish dissolves, so work on about one square foot at a time. Stop when the tackiness disappears or when the color pleases you. You may have to go over the whole area a second time, with a lightly dampened pad, to remove lap marks.
The Final Touches
Allow the amalgamated finish to dry. To bring back gloss, rub tung oil on by hand with a lint-free rag. Go with the grain, wiping off excess. One coat provides a satin finish and two coats, gloss.
Another option is to recoat with shellac. You can use shellac over any other finish and it's highly reversible. For tabletops, consider a tung oil varnish. Tung oil varnish provides a durable surface, impervious to water.
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